Via degli Dei, from Bologna to Florence... on foot

Travels

The name Via degli Dei is quite evocative, but saying Bologna-Florence on foot brings you back to reality. Here I’ve collected some notes that I’ll probably never finish…

Preparation

Route

Planning the route well is essential. I searched online for everything I could find, collecting maps, directions, and points of interest. I spent some time looking for software that would help me prepare the route well, and in the end I got along well with Garmin Basecamp and OpenStreetMaps maps I tried to build the track following the standard “Via degli Dei” (optimizing the points as much as possible)

What we brought with us

Federica’s backpack weighed about 10kg, while mine reached 15kg. Too much, but honestly I don’t think I overdid it with the gear we brought. The only thing I would have definitely avoided is the camera. It was too annoying and uncomfortable to keep it within reach. Much better to have a compact camera or a good phone, of course this only applies to those like me who don’t have a great passion for photography.

You also need to consider temperatures and at the beginning of autumn you can’t expect to be very comfortable with the weather conditions.

The list below is part of the TODO list I created before leaving, I marked with a checkmark the things we actually used.

  • 50L Forclaz EasyFit Backpack (Decathlon, 80 euros)
  • 60L Forclaz EasyFit Backpack (Decathlon, 90 euros)
  • Light Trekking Shoes (2)
  • Printed Maps
  • Train Tickets (Mi-Bo and Fi-Mi at 80 euros)
  • Quickhiker 3 Tent (Decathlon, about 130 euros)
  • Swiss Army Knife
  • Sleeping Bags (2)
  • Hats (2)
  • Trekking Poles
  • Sleeping Pads (2)
  • Pillows (2)
  • Rain Cape/Poncho (2)
  • Aluminum Water Bottles 1L (2)
  • Aluminum Water Bottles 1.5L (2)
  • Crushed Plastic Bottle 1.5L
  • Tent LED Light (1)
  • LED Headlamps (2)
  • Garmin Fenix 3 + Charger
  • Kobo E-readers (2)
  • AAA Batteries (6)
  • 12000mAh PowerBank with Integrated Solar Panel and Flashlight
  • USB Cables (2)
  • Dual USB Charger
  • Camera
  • Camping Gas Stove
  • Gas Refill
  • Cookware: reduced trekking kit for 2 people
  • Lighter
  • Freeze-dried Pasta (5)
  • Canned Meat (4)
  • Sugar, Tea, Chamomile
  • Cereal and Chocolate Bars (20)
  • Medicines: Ibuprofen, Aspirin, Acetaminophen, Diclofenac, Diclofenac Gel, Electrolyte Salts
  • Tissues
  • Toilet Paper
  • Wet Wipes
  • Toothbrush and Toothpaste (2)
  • Sewing Kit
  • First Aid Kit (+ thermal blanket)
  • Blister Bandages
  • Light Gloves (2)
  • Microfiber Towels (2)
  • Contact Lens Kit (2)
  • Sunglasses
  • Prescription Glasses
  • Sunscreen
  • American Tape (very useful for repairs)
  • Cord
  • Underwear
  • Pants
  • Light Fleece
  • Heavy Fleece
  • Thermal Shirt (2)
  • Technical Shirts (4x2)
  • Breathable Jacket (2)
  • Plastic Bags (4)

Travel Diary

We departed from Milan on September 24, 2016

Day 1: Bologna - Badolo

  • Distance: 24.57 km
  • Elevation Gain: 645 m (Max Altitude 399 m)
  • Duration: 10:26:18 (7:11:27 moving)
  • Average Temperature: 28 °C

We have a train departing from Garibaldi FS at 08:18, so no need for an early wake-up, 20 minutes by metro and we’re at the station. We meet Carlo and stop at Sala Borsa for a coffee, but time and chat pass quickly. It’s already late when we finally reach Porta Saragozza where we say goodbye to Carlo and prepare ourselves for the 666 arches of the portico that will take us to San Luca. It’s extremely hot, Federica realizes it won’t be so easy to carry that backpack for all those kilometers… Once at San Luca we relax a bit and prepare to walk the Bregoli trail that will take us to the Reno. Between one chat and another we even miss the trail entrance, but fortunately the GPS alerts me immediately that we’re off track. We’re off to a great start… We arrive at the Chiusa park which briefly returns us to civilization and we take the opportunity to eat (and from the only fountain I remember until the end of the day). The landscape is pleasant, we now only encounter bikes.. Once at Lizzano there would have been a detour to see what Wu Ming defines as a small Golden Gate in miniature, but it’s already XX:XX so with regret I decide to skip it, the idea of arriving at the ancient Badolo inn in daylight was becoming increasingly unlikely. After a few hours we are forced to turn on the headlamps, Federica is tired and perhaps has a bit of fever, a super affectionate cat follows us hoping perhaps for some food and water, but we are more desperate and tired than him. We throw in the towel a couple of km from the inn, there’s a nice meadow and some trees, perfect for pitching the tent. We even have a guard cat… I prepare a leek and porcini cream, I set an alarm for 6:30 without worrying that the sun wouldn’t rise before 7:10…

Day 2: Badolo - Madonna dei Fornelli

  • Distance: 26.79 km
  • Elevation Gain: 919 m, (Max Altitude 793 m)
  • Duration: 7:46:29 (6:27:17 moving)
  • Average Temperature: 29.3 °C

I wake up at 6:30, but it’s still too cold to get up. We wake up again at eight and have breakfast with some bars. We start walking after nine. Consulting the printed maps I had, we decide not to follow the original route, avoiding reaching the inn. Near an equestrian center we find a nice fountain. Shortly after…

Day 3: Madonna dei Fornelli - Monte di Fo’ (Camping)

  • Distance: 18.55 km
  • Elevation Gain: 702 m, (Max Altitude 1191 m)
  • Duration: 3:53:09 + 5:25:20 (3:02:53 + 4:28:41 moving)
  • Average Temperature: 26 °C

As I had anticipated we spend the night at Camping Il Sergente extending the route by a couple of km. The alternative would have been Camping della Funta which unfortunately had already closed (always call ahead).

Day 4: Monte di Fo’ - San Piero a Sieve (Camping)

  • Distance: km
  • Elevation Gain: m, (Max Altitude m)
  • Duration: ( moving)
  • Average Temperature:

Day 5: San Piero a Sieve - Poggio Pratone

  • Distance: km
  • Elevation Gain: m, (Max Altitude m)
  • Duration: ( moving)
  • Average Temperature:

The last real stage! Today the plan also includes arriving at a Campsite in Fiesole: the Camping Panoramico.

Thursday, September 29, 2016, Poggio Pratone - Florence

  • Distance: km
  • Elevation Gain: m, (Max Altitude m)
  • Duration: ( moving)
  • Average Temperature:

Epilogue

A few months have passed and I can say that perhaps from what you can read online it seems simpler and more relaxing than it really is. It’s not something you can do without any preparation,…

References

Original Plan

  1. Saturday 24
    1. 7:10~ Metro
    2. 8:18 Milan Garibaldi
    3. 9:37 Bologna Centrale
    4. Piazza Maggiore
    5. San Luca
    6. Bregoli Trail
    7. Chiusa Park (Tree-lined Avenue last fountain?)
    8. Lunch
    9. Badolo (Sasso Marconi)
    10. Badolo Inn (051847506)
    11. Free Camping
  2. Sunday 25
    1. Monzuno
    2. Madonna dei Fornelli (San Benedetto Val di Sambro)
    3. Free Camping
  3. Monday 26
    1. Futa Pass
    2. Camping Il Sergente (0558423018)
  4. Tuesday 27
    1. San’t Agata
    2. San Piero a Sieve
    3. Camping Mugello Verde
  5. Wednesday 28
    1. Catena Pass
    2. Camping Panoramico Fiesole
  6. Thursday 29
    1. Visit Fiesole
    2. Florence Piazza Della Signoria
    3. Florence Hotel
  7. Friday 30
    1. Florence
    2. Florence Hotel
  8. Saturday 1
    1. 21:16 Florence SMN
    2. 23:45 Milan Centrale